7 Exceptional Watches sold at a Sotheby's auction !
Tempo de leitura 11 min
Watches are one of the most unique human creations and, above all, very practical! These objects allow us to read the time and accompany us in our daily lives. The first inventions date back to the end of the 15th century. For a long time, the case of these first watches was oval, which is why they were nicknamed the Nuremberg Egg. They gradually flattened out into pocket watches.
They come in different models and styles: wall clocks, desk clocks, alarm clocks, digital watches, electronic devices or smartphones, wrist watches, and smartwatches ... It is an ideal collector item.
On December 9, 2022, closed an exceptional auction at Sotheby's. Watch lover? Horophile at heart? If you missed this great moment, we will summarize it for you in this article.
Sotheby's auction house presented a variety of finely selected vintage watches from various manufacturers, including but not limited to Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Cartier, and F.P. Journe...
Included in the auction were 3 iconic Rolex watches: from the collection of Hollywood stuntman turned race car driver Stan Barrett, two of which were worn during his quest to break the land speed record in 1979 and were given to him by his close friend and movie icon Paul Newman.
Leigh Safar, vice president and specialist in the watch department at Sotheby's, works with antique and modern watch collectors worldwide. During her career at Sotheby's, she has worked in both the New York and Los Angeles offices as a business manager. Leigh was the house expert who organized the sale in New York.
We analyzed the results and chose to show you the items that exceeded all expectations!
Indeed, as the title of the article indicates, we present 7 exceptional watches, of extraordinary rarity, which will arouse the curiosity of collectors. These watches have been acquired for a modest sum of 500 000 USD for the least expensive, up to 819 000 USD for the most expensive!
7/ Rolex “Padellone”: A yellow gold triple calendar wristwatch with moon phases Circa 1952
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Information:
Dial: silver
Caliber: automatic
Movement number: 67'813
Case: 18k yellow gold, pressure back
Case number: 820'636
Clasp: 18k yellow gold Rolex buckle
Size: 38 mm diameter
Signed: case, dial, and movement
Case: yes
Papers: no
Rolex is world-renowned for its tool watches. However, one of the most iconic Rolex models is the reference 8171, which is often called the “padellone” because of its size. This watch was exceptionally modern and ahead of its time, making it popular with collectors. The 8171 and 6062 (which launched a year before) were Rolex's most complicated watches at the time. The main difference between these two is that the 6062 has a screw-in case. Even though this watch has an extremely complicated movement, it’s still aesthetically pleasing to wear. On the outer edge are calendar numerals, indicated by the third hand in the middle. At 6 o'clock it displays the moon phase, 12 o'clock: day and month wheels. Near the crown are other indicators of date and month, along with one for leap years (irregularities).
Produced until 1952 only... experts and specialists believe that no more than 350 examples of the 8171 were made in yellow gold!
6/ Patek Philippe, sold by Tiffany & Co: A limited edition platinum chime wristwatch with jumping time display, made to celebrate the 175th anniversary, sealed service, circa 2014.
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Information:
Dial: silver
Caliber: cal. 32-650 mechanical, 75 jewels
Movement number: 5'251'780
Case: platinum, pressure back
Case number: 6'017'401
Clasp: Patek Philippe folding clasp in platinum
Size: 40 mm wide
Signed: case, dial, and movement
Case: yes
Papers: yes
Accessories: limited edition Patek Philippe presentation box with outer packaging, certificate of origin dated February 24, 2015.
A highly original creation, the Référence 5275 combines the super hour window, the passing hour beat, the leap minute, and the super seconds in an engraved platinum tonneau-shaped case. One of six new references launched by the Maison to celebrate its anniversary, this spectacular ballet of images and sounds were produced in a limited edition of 175 watches.
Patek Philippe added a tonal watch to its line of commemorative watches with leap hours at the opening and minutes in the middle. This piece, bearing the reference number 3969, has become a sought-after collector's item, especially since this type of complication, originally produced in the 1920s, is no longer available in the manufacturer's standard quantity. For its 175th anniversary, Patek Philippe has continued its tradition of exclusive models by developing the Jump Hour Reference 5275, whose movement and appearance combine fine watchmaking with rare craftsmanship. In addition, the polished platinum tonneau-shaped case is hand-engraved, as is the solid 18K gold dial with a raised floral motif. The reverse side is in solid platinum and engraved: "PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE 175th Anniversary 1839 - 201".
Presented under service seal and recently returned by Patek Philippe in Geneva, this highly sought-after reference could very well be the centerpiece of any serious collection, due to its extremely small production run and historical significance.
5/ Rolex, Daytona “Panda Paul Newman”: A stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, Circa 1969.
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Information:
Dial: white
Caliber: mechanical Valjoux 727, 17 jewels
Case: stainless steel, screwed back
Case number: 2'200'275, inside the case back 6239
Clasp: stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet with folding clasp
Size: 37.5 in diameter, the circumference of the bracelet is approximately 185 mm
Signed: case, dial, and movement
Case: yes
Papers: yes
Accessories: Rolex presentation box with outer packaging, warranty booklet dated December 6, 1971 and instruction booklet.
Paul Newman reference 6263 'Panda' is on the market and has been preserved since its original purchase with all its original accessories, including the presentation box, warranty booklet dated December 6, 1971, and user manual. It is the ultimate Rolex Daytona collector's trophy due to its perfect condition.
If you like the iconic Daytona, then this is the watch for you. The hands on the dial of this Paul Newman Panda have a distinctive shape and an elegant color. This handmade Rolex has unbeatable water resistance thanks to screws that protect it better than usual.
It has an authentic Rolex 5-point crown that shows only the crown. This cover is also known for its screws that provide better water resistance. The art deco style of the font used and the hashtags on the small square sub-dial are typical of the "Paul Newman" style dial. The Rolex "Paul Newman" Daytona is named after the famous endurance race "2 Hours of Daytona" and the actor Paul Newman (who drove this model and starred in several of his movies), truly making this model history. one of the most iconic watches of all time.
This lot was in good condition and complete with its box and papers... an extremely difficult feat to achieve in the complex and growing market for vintage Rolex watches!
4/ Patek Philippe: Tourbillon wristwatch in platinum with minute repeater and perpetual calendar with retrograde date, moon phases and leap year indication, Circa 2005
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Information:
Dial: black
Caliber: cal RTO 27 PS-QR mechanical, 28 jewels
Movement number: 1'905'106
Case : platinum, sapphire glass back to clip on
Case number : 4'326'768
Clasp: Patek Philippe platinum buckle
Size: 37 mm diameter
Signed: case, dial and movement
Case: yes
Papers: yes
Accessories: Patek Philippe presentation box with outer packaging, certificate of origin dated August 25, 2005, COSC dated March 6, 2005, product documentation in a large leather wallet, factory packaging box, service box, additional solid case back, sealed hanging label, adjustment pin and polishing cloth.
Produced between 1994 and 2010, the reference 5016 combines three of the most emblematic watch complications: the minute repeater, the perpetual calendar and the tourbillon. The allusion is further enhanced by the moon phase and retrograde date. It was once the most complicated watch produced by Patek Philippe until the Skymoon Tourbillon replaced it in 2001.
Few Patek Philippe watches have a retrograde perpetual calendar and none in the modern era. It includes a flying hand for the date and changes depending on what month it is, and if it's a leap year. The hand automatically jumps to the first day of the month after the 28th, 29th, 30th, or 31st. With its Breguet numerals on the dial, this watch offers peace of mind with its amazing presentation. It has 506 components with a tourbillon that's synchronized with the angelic clocks of the minute hand. Comes complete with all original accessories and is in very good condition. This masterpiece comes with all original accessories and is a rare collectible.
3/ Patek Philippe : Rare world-time open watch in yellow gold with cloisonné enamel map of North America, made in 1948.
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Information:
Dial: Cloisonné enamel dial with a map of North America in the center with a palm tree at the bottom left and a sailboat at the right, surrounded by a two-tone 24-hour rotating ring divided into day and night hours, satin-finished outer rotating ring divided into 24 hours and marked with 41 world locations
Caliber: 17-170 HU mechanical, 18 jewels
Movement number: 930'870
Case: 18k yellow gold, monogrammed snap on case back
Case number: 654'945
Size: 44 mm diameter
Signed: case, dial and movement
Case: no
Papers: no
Accessories: Patek Philippe Extract from the archives confirming the date of the sale on October 2, 1950
Universal Hours watches are the most sought-after of Patek Philippe's vintage productions, and the examples are the centerpiece of some of the world's most important watch collections. The reference 605 was one of the first models to incorporate the ingenious universal hour system developed by the famous watchmaker Louis Cottier. Production began in 1937 and lasted about thirty years, during which time less than a hundred were produced. Studies show that three-quarters of the ref. 605 came in yellow gold cases and only a quarter in rose gold. The model was originally produced only in champagne, rose or silver tones with metallic satin centers.
However, beginning in the late 1940s, Patek Philippe began ordering small series of colored cloisonné enamel dials. The cloisonné enamel dials of the World Era models mostly had "maps". These "maps" were stylized views of the continents, and versions included depictions of the American continents, or north and south together, as well as broader world views such as Europe with Africa and Asia, or even a view. From anywhere in the world. Cloisonne enamel dials have long been prized by collectors for their distinctive design and vibrant colors that remain unchanged over the years thanks to a durable finish. The fact that each one is unique adds to the appeal of a cloisonné dial - hand painting inevitably creates subtle variations in color tone as well as the inclusion and placement of details and patterns.
The Universal Time function of Ref. 605 is operated by the bezel, a mechanism it shares with the Ref. 1415 wristwatch. To set the watch, you simply twist the bezel until its current time is displayed at 12 o'clock, then advance the hands to your corresponding time zone. The 24-hour ring is recessed and designed to rotate automatically as time progresses, which gives you accurate time in all parts of the world. Since all elements (case, dial, and movement) are integral to this watch's technical function, Louis Cottier oversaw production for each element during his lifetime. Interestingly, even though this example shares 12 o'clock time zones for London and Paris like many of Cottier's inventions, both cities are now on Central European Time with France.
Louis Cottier was born in Carouge, Switzerland, and attended the Geneva School of Watchmaking before joining his father's workshop as an apprentice. As a world-renowned watchmaker, Cottier developed numerous patents that changed the face of watchmaking. A graduate of the Great Depression, Cottier realized there was a niche in high-end watches and focused his talents on developing complicated timepieces for Patek Philippe and other manufacturers who were only making affordable pieces. Among his most important inventions, the world time mechanism in the 1930s revolutionized how people tell time and sparked some iconic complications at Patek Philippe.
This lot has remained in the possession of the original owner's family since its purchase on October 2, 1950. Born in 1898, this Dartmouth graduate fought in both World Wars as a Lieutenant Commander in the U.S. Navy. After the war, he became a prominent American industrialist and philanthropist, serving as president or chairman of eight manufacturing companies across the continent. An enthusiastic thoroughbred horse owner, he owned stables in England, France and Kentucky, winning many of the most prestigious races around the world.
Summoned directly from his family, this is one of the finest, perfectly preserved enamel Ref 605HU's to come on the market in recent times. The extraordinary depth of color in the enamel map of North America is matched by an exceptionally crisp case with a breathtaking dark patina. Unknown until now, this is one of 62 pieces made in yellow gold, of which only 27 have been released.
Accompanied by its extract from the Patek Philippe archives indicating the date of manufacture of 1948 and the date of sale of October 2, 1950.
2/ Patek Philippe, sold by Tiffany & Co: Platinum and pink gold semi-skeletonized minute repeater and perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date, moon phases and leap year indication, Service Sealed, Circa 2014.
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Information:
Dial: semi-skeletonized
Caliber: cal. R27 PS QR LU automatic, 41 jewels
Movement number: 5'000'545
Case : platinum and 18k rose gold, pressure back
Case number : 4'556'368
Clasp: Patek Philippe platinum folding clasp
Size: 43 mm diameter
Signed: case, dial and movement
Case: yes
Papers: yes
Accessories: Patek Philippe presentation box with outer packaging, winding case presentation box with outer packaging, certificate of origin dated June 16, 2014, product documentation in large leather wallet, Tiffany & Co. evaluation report dated June 17, 2014, leather pouch, booklets, service box, sealed setting pin, and hanging tag.
Two of the most prestigious watch complications are the minute repeater and the perpetual calendar. The former can tell time by ringing it with internal gongs, while the latter knows the exact number of days in each month, including leap years. This makes it theoretically possible for this complication to provide an accurate date forever. These complications are very hard to achieve because they require a large number of components. As such, these two types of watches are strongly associated with Patek Philippe, the world's best watchmaker.
In 2006, the brand attempted a completely new implementation of this combination of perpetual calendar and minute repeater with reference 5104.
In contrast to the classic style and proportions of previous years' iterations, the new reference had a large, modern 43mm case in two-tone platinum and rose gold and an avant-garde semi-skeletonized dial never before seen in a large version. complication To combat the readability problems that have often plagued skeletonized dials and allow an unobstructed view of the inner workings, the day, month, and year markers are printed in white text on transparent sapphire discs, while a black background surrounds each disc for contrast. on the text and convey the information. The date is displayed on a huge central shoulder retrograde down the dial.
The case bands and lugs are all decorated with beautiful hollowed-out inlays that add a royal charm to the watch. The expertly decorated micro-rotor caliber is visible through the sapphire case back and features an impressive 515 components. With a loud, clear, and full sound, this repeater is nothing short of a spectacle and is one of Patek Philippe's most prized grand complications today.
Complete with all original accessories, the watch is offered under service seal, having recently returned from Patek Philippe in Geneva.
1/ Rolex Daytona 'Paul Newman Lemon': a yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with bracelet, Circa 1969.
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Information:
Dial: lemon
Caliber: cal. 727 mechanical, 17 jewels
Case: 18k yellow gold, screwed back with a personal inscription
Case number: 2'357'385, inside back stamped 6241
Clasp: 18k yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet with folding clasp.
Size: 37.5 mm diameter
Signed: case, dial and movement
Box: no
Papers: no
Accessories: Rolex pouch and polishing cloth
The Paul Newman Daytona has steadily grown in popularity over the years, attracting established Rolex enthusiasts, serious collectors, and celebrities alike. The Paul Newman Daytona is defined by its Art Deco dial, officially called the "Exotic Dial." These watches remained off the market for a few years, until the late 1980s when a group of Italian watch dealers and collectors coined the term "Paul Newman" (after he was photographed several times with his own reference number 6239). Since Paul Newman sold the one exotic Daytona dial, we have seen the appetite and market value of Paul Newmans explode.
Between the 1960s and 1980s, it is estimated that for every 20 normal Daytona dials, one exotic dial was made... However, among all the exotic dials made, there is also a classification of the most desirable combination. The combination immediately becomes more difficult when the reference and the material of the watch come into play. For example, a gold case of the Paul Newman Daytona will be rarer than a stainless steel case, because only a fraction of them was produced.
In addition to rarity and condition, provenance plays a key role in determining the price of a highly collectible wristwatch. This 6264 belonged to a prominent international diplomat and is being offered today by the descendants of the original owner.
The present reference 6264 in a yellow gold case is distinguished by its dial, playfully nicknamed "Lemon" by the collecting community. The configuration of a "Lemon" dial is unusual for a variety of reasons; typically, the dial color should be more of a cream color, yet the present "Lemon" dial has a more attractive citrus tone with intense black subsidiary dials and white graphics instead of gold subsidiary markers.
To our knowledge, there are only a dozen "Lemon" dials known to the public. Sotheby's is pleased to present at auction this exceptional and rare Paul Newman 6264 with "Lemon" dial. For a similar example of the 6264 "Lemon Dial", please see "Ultimate Rolex Daytona" by Pucci Papaelo, pages 316-319.
That's not all, out of the 128 lots, we only showed 7 (the most interesting ones), but if you want to see more, the official catalog is available online: https://www.sothebys.com/en/docs/pdf/n10956-highres.pdf
It makes you want to start a watch collection... But wow, what a budget!
Don't panic, you can start with a simpler collection... We have articles on minerals, for example! Here is a text written by Wolf Minerals, an active member and expert in the field:
Have a good read!
